Sony Challenges the Micro Four Thirds

After the PMA announcement in Feb 2010, Sony has finally released the NEX-3 and NEX-5 pseudo DSLR cameras into their Digital Imaging ecosystem. Now I was aware of the product for over a year, but since I had a NDA tied to this, I had to respect the paper which I signed. To be fair, I was already toying with the G1 during that time, thinking how it would fit into the camera line up that Sony had already released so far. Needless to say, they have created a completely new line of cameras which will compete directly with their A200 series DSLR. So how will this compare with the Micro Four Thirds system from both Olympus and Panasonic? Well it will be pretty close.

Body wise it is smaller but the lenses are bigger than the micro four thirds

The Sony sports a APS-C sized sensor, the same 14.2 megapixel sensor as the A380, so in terms of imaging performance, you can expect it to be the same. In terms of dynamic range, has about 8.8EV in ISO400, which is higher than that of what you get from the G1 or G2 Lumix. This is to be expected from a much larger sensor. Only the GH1 will be on equal standing with the Sony NEX.  Olympus on the other hand will have the clear advantage, beating the NEX with a 9.1 Dynamic range output.

High ISO handling, well the Lumix will have to take a back seat as there is clearly an advantage of the Sony NEX over the Lumix G series. If you use the ISO figures from the A380, you’d realize that imaging performance will be better than the Four Thirds sensor but not a whole lot. The Pen will be on par but the Lumix G2 and its elk will be below. The GH1 may also be on par, with acceptable results at ISO1600 but anything beyond that, the image will start to crumble.

It is the same for the Pen, ISO performance will start to take a hit at ISO1600, so the only real losers here are the Lumix G10 and G2. Finally we have the image stabilization issue, which unfortunately has been changed from in-camera on the Sony Alpha, to a Lens stabilizer on the NEX. This is bad. Coz we all know for a fact that it only makes the lenses more expensive when you do this. Furthermore lens stabilization works better for longer focal lengths and is less effective for shorter or Macro distances.

The body is extremely slim on the NEX

This means the only clear winner here is the Olympus as it will remain the only camera which has in body stabilizers. This is of course very important for low light photography but if you are going to be using it for daylight shooting, it should not pose a problem. Anything to do with AF will be a bit spotty as Sony has never really excelled in AF control and had for years tried to rectify the problem. And since we do not have an actual unit in hand, we can’t say for sure if this will beat the Pen or the Lumix.

Some of you would be jumping for joy at a camera that offers 14.2 megapixels. For me, this is hardly a reason to be joyous since many of you do not make full use of the sensor resolution for poster size prints. Sure it will be useful for cropping, but this also means you need to have sharper lenses which at this stage has yet to be proven. The new Sony NEX will support a completely new lens mount. This route was similarly taken by both Panasonic and Olympus when they dumped the Four Thirds system in favor of the Micro Four Thirds.

To be fair, the Sony will be a promising alternative to the Micro Four Thirds only if it offers a cheaper alternative. Sony is famous for releasing systems which are price competitive, and it was this strategy that won the hearts and minds of amateur photographers. As a professional tool, its lenses are no cheaper than that offered by Nikon or Canon.

We can only come to one conclusion, Sony wants you to upgrade your compact but they do not want you to buy into the Micro Four Thirds system. And judging from their pricing strategies, Sony will pound Panasonic to a pulp. And depending on how Panasonic will respond, I see an all out price war once these three systems are freely available in the market.

Wide Angle Choices

Fish eye Lumix

Someone mentioned to me that they now have a choice of two superwide angle zooms, the 7-14mm Lumix and the M.Zuiko 9-18mm. You can read the review from DPreview.com here, as these blokes have tested out the lens. I don’t do technical reviews as I don’t have the equipment or the time but since there are some excellent stuff on the internet, I could say that the bulk of the work is already done and there is no need to reinvent the wheel. So which one should you buy?

Technical reviews are fun to read but in real world applications, you need to understand what is being said as you will have to decide if what you know is sufficient to make that decision to purchase a lens.

This is the Panasonic Lumix Fish Eye zoom which I have

If you take a careful look at the fish eye zoom from Panasonic, you’d notice it has a rather large bulb of a lens popping out. This is why you call it a fish eye as it resembles a fish’s eye. The lens hood is built in so there is no extras but it is virtually impossible to add a filter to protect your lens from scratches or bumps. This means you have to be very careful as there is no other way to protect lens if you are not careful. Often, when you are out and about, the lens will get stained with liquids and this is where the problem sets in. Oil spots or grease spots may be naked to your eye but when light hits, it will be refracted into a rainbow of colors. This may sound fine if you’re looking to create some magical look but in most cases, especially during night photography, the spot will create some unwanted rainbow effects. You cannot be careless when using this lens as you need to pop the lens cap on whenever it is not in use or you risk damaging the fish eye.

Zuiko 9-18mm Zoom, a cheaper alternative

The Zuiko super wide angle is a tad less of a suspect since it can hold a lens filter in place. It is not a fish eye and you can carry this around without having to worry about the lens hood or damage to the lens itself if you have a UV filter in place. When you are in a hurry, shooting is much faster if you can change lenses quickly. At full zoom, the Zuiko is f/5.6 as opposed to the Lumix’s constant f/4 aperture. You may lose f/1.6 of a stop but this can easily be addressed if you are using it on a EP-1, EP-2 or EPL-1 with in-camera body stabilization.

The downside of this will only be apparent in the price if you are already on a Olympus Micro Four Thirds system. Olympus users will see little or no advantage in buying either of the lenses but Lumix G users will. For one, the Lumix 7-14mm is far more expensive, and with a price difference of at least USD$300, you have to think twice about buying this even if you stand to gain f/1.6 sstops at full zoom.

Both lenses perform in a similar fashion but the Lumix will of course have a slight edge in terms of picture quality. This will not be apparent until you blow your images to poster size of course so its not a main worry if you keep them for personal use.

The Zuiko is far more portable, and is less bulky if you are looking for a compact zoom. And since it makes no difference if you use this on the Lumix G series cameras as both super wide angle lenses do not support any image stabilization within the lens itself.

Thus as a buying guide, you can use this logic to make a decision on which lens to buy. Taking into account if you already have a budget in mind, then the Zuiko lens is a no-brainer.

1. If you are a Lumix G series user who is not shooting any images for poster size prints, then choose the Zuiko lens.

2. If you are a Pen series user who needs high quality poster size print, then choose the Lumix lens as it has better image quality and with the Pen’s in-camera stabilization, you can gain up to two more stops from this lens in low light shooting.

These are the only two considerations that come to mind. The rest are not important factors as your primary concern is image quality. True there are size considerations but these are often not realistic. Your goal is to capture good or great images and lens portability alone does not merit a judging qualification.

Shooting Race Queens

Shooting race queens is one of the more rewarding aspects of photography. Here you have car and girls in a high octane event which just begs to be noticed. So what is it like to shoot at a event like this? Well for one, Race Queens in pop culture is only confined to Asia and Europe. If you are thinking you can shoot these in a American racing event, well, its not going to happen as they have been labeled as an insurance risk.

This is what you get at the Macau GP

Shooting models in an open environment is never easy. First you have hundreds of other photographer’s wanting to nail their shot and you have to jostle and bump people around you as these models are told never to remain the same place.

Not all models are beautiful of course so you have your best pick but overall, you will nail your shot as long as you are persistent enough.

You will also have to be very observant to notice your surroundings as often, you will have obstacles coming towards you. There are cars, and more cars in the paddock area and each time a race event is completed, they will come back down the paddock. Then there is the pit crew who are always rushing from one place to another, making the situation very fluid.

All this will affect your ability to concentrate and yes, it can be quite a challenge. But your goal is still to capture great image thus you need. The Apple iPhone app is designed to give you a rough idea on what to expect as all racing events are different. For example, in Asia, you’d find more of them than compared to in Europe.

The app also features a gallery which you can use on the iPhone app as wallpaper and for those running iPhone 4.0 OS will have the benefit of setting the lock screen and home screen with these pictures as well. It is available now, and if you want to get it, just click here.

The Next Top Model

So what does a photographer want from a model? Good looks? Waif like body? Well not exactly. There is the factor which photographers call the X-factor, which is like defining what cool is. But for me, having had the experience to read one’s astrology chart, I can spot one without having to resort to my astrological abilities.

Ok, this may not be the way for the rest of you to understand but there are simpler methods to know if a model is photogenic. Now, these can be pretty ordinary people, but for some reason, they make good subjects. No, they are not extroverted nor are they camera whores.

I never believed that camera whores make better models. Instead, the fashion industry has nailed this down to an X-factor. Which is another way of saying they have no idea what this is. But the simple definition is this. A model will look good and carries herself well and people who see these pictures, don’t mind seeing them over and over again.

Not all models are full time pros, thus you must learn to work with them

Not many will make it as a X-factor model. This is a fact but if you still are going to try to be a photo model or event model, this is what you need to succeed.

CONFIDENCE

You must show your inner confidence whenever a camera is leveled at  you. Sure some of you pretty girls would say, oh…I get that all the time, but in reality, few pretty girls actually make it far. You need the confidence to dominate. This has to shine from within you. You need to make people want to LOOK at you.

GREAT SKIN

You have no idea how much work goes into digitally enhancing your looks if you have bad skin. I hate working with models with bad skin, it shows through when I use a sharp lens and absolutely have no idea why models do not watch what they eat? A good complexion is essential to becoming a model.

THIN or FAT?

Unfortunate but true, if you carry a few extra kilos, I think you ought to try modeling something else. Meaty models do not photograph well. This is the absolute TRUTH and you can ASK any fashion photographer and they will say the same thing. Thin is good, chubby is ugly. And if you can’t maintain your weight to have a figure, then don’t be a model. Be something else.

I NEED BREASTS

This is not true. Kate Moss is as flat as an airport runway. So there you have it, don’t go asking your mom for money for a breast implant. It is way over rated. You need to be photogenic and that does not include having large breast.

GET INTO CHARACTER

I do not know how many of you know this but being a model in front of a camera requires some acting skills. You need to act, for  split moment, what the photographer or art director wants of you. That pout, that smile, the sadness, the dreamy look. Even just to look sexy requires some acting. This is what you need to be a successful photo model.

BE PROFESSIONAL

Photographers HATE working with prima donnas. I remember once when I was working with photographer Mark Law for a Sony project. He said one thing about celebrities…”The bigger they are, the easier they are to work with”. This is true in every regard for fashion models. Don’t flaunt it. Be professional about your job and don’t arrive late for your shoot. Take orders and if you are unclear, ask for directions, if you can’t do it, then say so.

So once you get a good idea on what to expect from photographers, then you will know what you must do. If you can’t observe any of these simple rules, then for god sakes do not be a model. You won’t make it and you won’t last either.

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